Where to eat in Lunigiana, and what to order
By the TravelCheap Editorial Team · Updated October 28, 2026
Order testaroli in Pontremoli and panigacci in Podenzana. Testaroli are a pancake-like pasta cooked on hot cast-iron pans, cut into diamonds and served with pesto or cheese; panigacci are small flatbreads eaten warm with cured meats.
Prices are modest by Tuscan standards. A 2019 review put dinner at Trattoria Norina in Pontremoli at about €25, though prices will have risen since.
Dishes to try
- Testarolo of Pontremoli: a Slow Food presidium. The batter cooks in red-hot cast-iron testi, then the pieces are blanched and dressed with pesto, cheese or meat sauce (The three Slow Food presidia of Lunigiana (Visit Tuscany)).
- Panigacci of Podenzana: unleavened discs about 15 cm across, baked in stacked testi and eaten warm with cured meats and cheese (Panigacci from Podenzana (Visit Tuscany)).
- Lasagne bastarde: one third chestnut flour, cut into diamonds and served with butter and sage or mushrooms (Lunigiana lasagne bastarde recipe (Visit Tuscany)).
- Farina di castagne della Lunigiana DOP: chestnut flour dried over a chestnut-wood fire for at least 25 days, used in castagnaccio and fritters (Farina di castagne della Lunigiana DOP (Visit Tuscany)).
- Torta d'erbi (savoury herb pie), Marocca di Casola chestnut bread and Zeri lamb (Lunigiana, a journey into taste (Visit Tuscany), The three Slow Food presidia of Lunigiana (Visit Tuscany)).
- Miele della Lunigiana DOP: acacia or chestnut honey (Miele della Lunigiana DOP (Visit Tuscany)).
Check live prices for your dates. We compare hundreds of travel sites through KAYAK.
Compare hotels in PontremoliRecommended places
| Place | Town | Known for | Recommended by |
|---|---|---|---|
| Locanda de Banchieri | Fosdinovo (Caniparola) | Kitchen-garden cooking and an all-vegetable menu; a splurge | Michelin Guide, 1 star (2026) |
| La Burlanda | Fosdinovo | Farm osteria | Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2026 and 2027 (Chiocciola) |
| Osteria San Francesco e il Lupo | Pontremoli | Testaroli, cured meats, Zeri lamb; book ahead | Gambero Rosso |
| Osteria della Luna | Pontremoli | Tortelli, anolini, testaroli | Gambero Rosso |
| Trattoria Norina | Pontremoli | Torte d'erbi, chestnut fritters with ricotta, fried Zeri lamb | Dissapore (2019) |
| La Gavarina d'Oro | Podenzana | Panigacci, including sweet versions | Gambero Rosso |
| Il Cantinon | Filattiera | Testaroli, truffle in season, a good wine cellar | Gambero Rosso |
| Montagna Verde | Licciana Nardi | Organic agriturismo: chestnuts, testaroli with pesto | Gambero Rosso |
Sources: Locanda de Banchieri, Fosdinovo (Michelin Guide), Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2027, region by region (Dissapore), Where to eat in Lunigiana (Gambero Rosso International) and Trattoria Norina, Pontremoli (Dissapore). Check opening days before you drive out, as many places close one or two days a week.
Frequently asked questions
What are testaroli?
A Lunigiana pasta made from flour, water and salt, cooked in hot cast-iron pans called testi, cut into diamonds, blanched and dressed with pesto, cheese or sauce. The Pontremoli version is a Slow Food presidium.
Where can I eat panigacci?
In Podenzana, where they come from. La Gavarina d'Oro, recommended by Gambero Rosso, serves many versions.
Is there a Michelin-starred restaurant in Lunigiana?
Yes. Locanda de Banchieri in Fosdinovo holds one Michelin star in the 2026 guide.
Plan the trip
Compare prices from many travel sites in one search. We may earn a commission if you book, at no extra cost to you.
More Lunigiana guides
Sources
- The three Slow Food presidia of Lunigiana (Visit Tuscany)
- Panigacci from Podenzana (Visit Tuscany)
- Lunigiana lasagne bastarde recipe (Visit Tuscany)
- Farina di castagne della Lunigiana DOP (Visit Tuscany)
- Lunigiana, a journey into taste (Visit Tuscany)
- Miele della Lunigiana DOP (Visit Tuscany)
- Locanda de Banchieri, Fosdinovo (Michelin Guide)
- Slow Food Osterie d'Italia 2027, region by region (Dissapore)
- Where to eat in Lunigiana (Gambero Rosso International)
- Trattoria Norina, Pontremoli (Dissapore)
Prices, timetables and trail status change. We checked the figures on this page on October 28, 2026. Found something out of date? Email contact@travelcheap.online.